New Delhi

Delhi doesn't ease you in gently. The city hits you the moment you step outside the airport — the heat, the horns, the sheer density of people and history occupying the same street. It operates on two timelines simultaneously. Old Delhi is the Mughal capital: 17th-century mosques, narrow lanes where cycle-rickshaws have right of way over cars, and food markets that haven't fundamentally changed in centuries. New Delhi is the British-designed capital with its wide boulevards, government buildings, and a rapidly expanding cafe and restaurant scene. These two Delhis don't compete. They coexist, and that tension is exactly what makes the city so compelling. Most tourists pass through quickly on their way to the Taj Mahal or Rajasthan. That's a mistake. Delhi deserves at least 2-3 days on its own terms. The street food alone is worth the trip.

Delhi is not a dangerous city for tourists in the violent-crime sense, but it is one of the most scam-heavy cities in Asia. The difference matters. Violent incidents targeting tourists are genuinely rare. Getting financially scammed or wasting hours in a fake tourist office is extremely common if you're not prepared. The scams to know: The 'hotel is closed' scam — a driver or official-looking person claims your booked hotel has shut down, flooded, or been condemned, then offers to take you somewhere better. It's almost never true. Call your hotel directly. The fake government tourist office scam — near Connaught Place, Janpath, and New Delhi Railway Station, touts direct you to offices that look official and sell overpriced tours or nonexistent packages. The only official India Tourism office is clearly listed on the government website. Auto-rickshaw overcharging — meters are frequently ignored. Use Uber Auto or Ola Auto for price transparency. The gem and carpet investment scam — a friendly local steers you toward a shop where 'export-quality' goods can supposedly be resold at home for profit. Walk away. Don't say it's your first time in India. Don't follow strangers to secondary locations. Keep valuables in a cross-body bag with a zipper. Use women-only metro cars if you're a solo female traveler — they exist on every train and are clearly marked. Air quality in Delhi is worst November through January; an N95 mask is worth packing if you visit during those months. Emergency number: 112 (police, ambulance, fire). Tourist Police Delhi: +91-11-23374012. If you need to report an incident to police, always request a First Information Report (FIR) — without one, insurance claims become very difficult.

The Delhi Metro is the single best transport decision you can make. It's modern, air-conditioned, and covers the city well. Fares run ₹10-60 ($0.12-0.72) per trip depending on distance. Buy a Smart Card on arrival — it gives you a 10% discount on every journey and lets you skip the ticket queue. Day passes cost ₹100. The Airport Express Line from Terminal 3 at Indira Gandhi International Airport takes 19-20 minutes to New Delhi Railway Station and costs ₹60. It's faster than a taxi in traffic and a fraction of the price. For everything the metro can't reach, use Uber or Ola. Both apps work well in Delhi, prices are shown upfront, and you avoid the auto-rickshaw overcharging problem entirely. Auto-rickshaws should cost ₹30-150 for short trips, but the meter is routinely ignored with tourists — always agree on a price before you get in, or book through an app. Hiring a private driver for a full day runs $40-65 for a standard vehicle (Toyota Innova Crysta is the most common). For a jam-packed sightseeing day across spread-out monuments, this is often the most efficient option. Drivers and tour guides are separate roles — drivers are not permitted to act as guides inside monuments, so hire a licensed guide separately if you want depth. Airport taxi scam warning: do not follow anyone at Delhi airport who offers to carry your bags or tells you there's a 'problem' with your pre-booked hotel. Call your hotel directly to verify. Take the Airport Express metro or pre-book a verified ride through Uber.