El Otro Lado - Private Retreat
Artful, culturally immersive, and genuinely remote. Think Caribbean jungle meets eclectic gallery — each house is decorated with Congo headpieces, Guna Indian molas, African masks made from reclaimed plastic (Arte Povera style), and works by local Portobelo artists. The vibe is intimate and unhurried; hammocks everywhere, an infinity pool overlooking the bay, and a curated music channel by Radio Gladys Palmera playing in the background.
Call ahead as you pass María Chiquita on the drive to Portobelo — that's the signal for the property to send the boat to meet you
Why It Matters
Buyout-only, boat-access-only, inside a UNESCO World Heritage and National Park — and yet it has an infinity pool and full-service kitchen. The Portobelo Bay Foundation gives the property real community roots rather than just decorative nods to local culture. It landed on the cover of Condé Nast Traveller UK in 2014 and is listed on both Michelin and Tablet Hotels.
El Otro Lado sits on a peninsula jutting into Portobelo Bay, accessible only by a 10-minute boat transfer from the town of Portobelo. There are no roads through the protected forest. You rent the entire place — four oceanfront casitas plus the three-suite Casa Grande villa — for up to 20 guests, and meals, boat transfers, and a rotating program of activities are all built into the rate. The property is deeply woven into the Afro-Caribbean Congo culture of the region through its own Portobelo Bay Foundation, which supports local artists, musicians, and the famous Casa Congo cultural center.
Where You'll Stay
5 room types available
Casa Grande
The two-story villa at nearly 800 m2, located higher on the property with a 3-minute walk above the casitas. The ground floor contains a centrally air-conditioned living room (convertible for business meetings or family gatherings), a bar, and outdoor dining. Three individual suites occupy the second floor, each with its own character, surrounding terraces with jungle and bay views, and incorporated nooks for privacy. Can accommodate 6 adults and 4 children (up to 14 years old). Can be booked as a standalone partial buyout or combined with the casitas for full-property exclusive use.
3 Kings (individual suites) · 800 sqmForest House
Tucked between a private waterfall and the rainforest, with views over Portobelo Bay. The 65 m2 house is decorated with works by local Portobelo artists, Guna Indian molas (painted decorative fabrics), and a colorful collection of Congo headpieces. One of four casitas in the lower section of the property, just steps from the gazebo bar and infinity pool.
1 King · 65 sqmSea House
65 m2 casita with a unique position offering views of both the rainforest canopy and the sea bay from its terraces. The standout design feature: a collection of African masks made from reclaimed plastic waste, one of the most authentic examples of Arte Povera design in the retreat.
1 King · 65 sqmSpirit House
The flagship casita at ~215 m2, positioned right at the water's edge. Spirit House has its own living room, two individual king suites, and a sea-facing terrace. The most elaborately decorated of the four, featuring paintings and sculpture from Portobelo Workshop artists, colonial chairs, indigenous handicrafts from Guna and Embera Indians, contemporary photography, and European art pieces. Sleeps 4 guests across its two suites.
2 Kings (2 individual suites) · 215 sqmSun House
The largest of the four casitas at approximately 95 m2, positioned at the edge of the rainforest with exceptional bay views from two separate terraces. Decorated with Congo hats, paintings by Portobelo Workshop artists, and evocative photographs by Sandra Eleta — one of Panama's most recognized contemporary photographers. Exclusive privacy and maximum comfort.
1 King · 95 sqmThe Property
Eat & Drink
1 venue on property
Restaurant
Spa & Wellness
Treatment Menu
On Property
How you'll actually spend your days.
Go out with a local traditional fisherman to the best spots in the bay. Catch can be cooked for lunch or dinner. Beginner-friendly.
Twist through shipwrecks and seagrass underwater using a deep board towed behind a boat. Moderate difficulty — a newer addition to the activities menu.
Paddle through the bay and mangroves of Portobelo National Park at your own pace. Equipment included in buyout rate.
The property sits on land that was briefly settled as 'New Portobelo' in 1904 during Panama Canal construction, then abandoned in 1914. The only remnant is the century-old private dam and the lake it created. Guests explore it by pedal boat through jungle-fringed water.
Dive Portobelo Bay's historic underwater attractions including a 110-foot sunken freighter, a C-45 airplane wreck, coral reefs, Drake Island, and Salmedena reef. Advanced activity.
Explore the coral reefs of Portobelo National Park and Caribbean reef fish. Beginner-friendly. Equipment included in buyout rate.
Intermediate to advanced wakeboarding and foiling in the waters of Portobelo Bay — reportedly the same bay where Francis Drake is said to rest at the bottom.
At the highest point of the property, a century-old dam lake with a small wooden floating platform where guests can have cocktails and light bites while surrounded by jungle. Ideal for informal meetings or simply switching off.
The retreat organizes boat trips to virgin Caribbean beaches just minutes away for private beach picnics. Included in buyout rate.
Hands-on workshops at the Foundation's Casa Congo center in Portobelo, where guests engage with local artists and learn about Congo art forms. The property's Escuelita del Ritmo (Rhythm School) and Carpentry Workshop are also available.
An evening dinner performance by members of the local Congo community — music, dance, and storytelling rooted in the Afro-Caribbean heritage of Portobelo. Organized through the Portobelo Bay Foundation.
Learn to cook with 'Ají Chombo' — the fiery Panamanian Caribbean red pepper — and make the property's house hot sauce 'La Llamarada' alongside the signature maracuyá mojito 'El Otro Lado.'
Board the property's elegant barge 'La Farahona' for a champagne float through the tropical mangroves of La Farahona. The boat stops in the rainforest for wildlife spotting — crocodile sightings are not unusual. Included in the standard buyout.
Guided hikes around the property, the century-old barrage lake, and up to the UNESCO-listed fort ruins of San Fernando and San Fernandito on the edge of the estate. Monkeys, sloths, toucans, poison-dart frogs, and excellent birdwatching throughout.
Boat over to historic Portobelo — one of the most important colonial settlements in the Americas, where gold and treasure sailed back to Spain and pirates like Francis Drake roamed. UNESCO World Heritage ruins, Black Christ church, Museum of Biodiversity, and Casa Congo arts shop are all here.
Amenities & Practical Info
The details that matter for planning.
A curated ambient music channel specifically compiled for the property by the renowned Barcelona-based global music station Radio Gladys Palmera.
Both are provided in every room — a practical touch for a property in the middle of a Caribbean rainforest.
All rooms have air conditioning. The Casa Grande living room is centrally air-conditioned.
Strung throughout the property for guests to use at any time.
The property provides a curated book selection and entertainment games for guests. Movies are also available.
Overlooks Portobelo Bay directly. Located in the lower section of the property adjacent to the gazebo bar — the casitas are steps away.
10-minute boat transfer from Portobelo town to the property is included in the buyout rate. Guests park in Portobelo and are met by staff at the dock.
The property's bay is a natural deep-water harbor, well-protected from weather, suitable for private yacht arrivals. Contact the property to coordinate.
BUILD YOUR EL OTRO LADO - PRIVATE RETREAT PLAN
Rooms, dining, spa, and resort experiences — organized into one trip plan.
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