Gjirokastër in May

May through June gives you perfect weather without the summer crowds. Temperatures hover around 22°C, and everything blooms green against those gray stones. September and October work just as well – warm days, cool evenings, and the summer tourists have gone home. Avoid July and August unless you enjoy sweating through cobblestone climbs in 35°C heat. Winter can be magical with occasional snow dusting the castle, but many guesthouses close from November through March. And here's something most guides won't tell you: visit during the week if possible. Albanian families flood in on weekends, and while the energy is great, finding a table at the good restaurants becomes a challenge.