Oltrarno in October

May and September hit the sweet spot — warm enough for evening strolls but cool enough that workshop visits don't leave you sweating through your shirt. Artisan studios get stuffy in summer heat. October brings harvest season and the best light for photography. The hills around San Niccolò turn gold, and restaurants start serving hearty fall dishes. Crowds thin out after school starts back up. Skip July and August unless you love heat and tourist buses. Many small workshops close for vacation anyway, and you'll miss the neighborhood's working character.